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Current Development in Theory and Applications of Wavelets

and mean run length

are used to measure the degree of wave groupiness. The results show that changes in wave groupiness occur outside the surf zone and that groupiness decreases sharply across the surf zone. The variations in wave groupiness are closely related to the changes of group structures of the first harmonic of the waves

And the process of uniformity of the first harmonic energy along time, which is mainly caused by breaking, leads to the decrease of groupiness in surf zone. Using a multi-resolution analysis based on the discrete wavelet transform (DWT), the variations in wave groupiness in the region where wave breaking is not predominant are mainly due to the changes in the difference frequency

between the peak frequencies of the two series, whose energies are dominant in the waves, at two time scales of DWT.

Current Development in Theory and Applications of Wavelets
Volume 3, Issue 1, Pages 81 - 95 (April 2009)

LABORATORY STUDY OF GROUPINESS EVOLUTION OF IRREGULAR WAVES ON A MILD SLOPE BEACH BY WAVELET
Guohai Dong (P. R. China), Yuxiang Ma (P. R. China) and Xiaozhou Ma (P. R. China)

Abstract:
This paper concerns the evolution of groupiness of irregular waves on a mild slope beach using both the continuous and discrete wavelet transforms. Two cases of mechanically generated random waves based on Jonswap spectra are used in this study. Waves for both cases propagate a relatively long distance on the beach before breaking. The groupiness factor

and mean run length

between the peak frequencies of the two series, whose energies are dominant in the waves, at two time scales of DWT.

Keywords and phrases: wavelet transform, irregular waves, wave groupiness, nonlinearity.

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